Heated bed with view of Glacier Bay
Lying on a heated ceramic bed while floating by a sun lit ice field might be considered by some to be the height of decadence. And, to achieve that threshold, I believe there would have to be a glass of champagne in my hand. But that was yesterday…
Up on the promenade deck, waiters are serving Dutch pea soup to the passengers brave enough to face the outdoor chill aboard this Holland America Zuiderdam Alaska cruise. They are huddled under HAL’s signature woolly blankets the crew passes around to ensure maximum outdoor enjoyment of the spectacular views.
Holland America has been floating along this coastline for decades and, happily for me, the company decided it was time I experienced this part of the world in the bosom of their care. My husband and I didn’t need much convincing. Alaska has always been on our bucket list and it delivered on all of our expectations.
Holland America went even further. It over-delivered. The ship is run like a well-run … uh, ship. Every touch point yields a satisfactory result. And coming from an impatient traveller like myself, that is saying a lot. Promises are kept, scheduling is respected and the service is, without exception, courteous and friendly. When maneuvering 2,000 people through bays full of heft chunks of ice, that is an impressive feat. And the food! We’ll get to that later.
A glass of Veuve at the Pinnacle Grill
In describing the cruise, one dinner guest told me, “It’s not that kind of frou-frou cruise line” pointing to another ship docked across from us. I asked him to elaborate and he said “it’s much more thoughtful” - adding that, “It’s really very Dutch. The service is reliable, the people are interesting, and you really get a sense of the historic relationship between the Dutch and the Indonesians. It’s harmonious. You can tell when the crew isn’t happy on a ship and here everyone seems genuinely warm and cheerful.”
As Captain Michiel Willems put it, “I’ve been with Holland America for 22 years. I grew up with the brand. It’s like family”.
The combination of a ‘non-frou-frou’ cruise line like Holland America and an Alaska itinerary has attracted a thoughtful and lively crowd. Folks of all ages from the U.S., Australia, Spain, Denmark and the Netherlands are all looking for a unique opportunity to experience a ruggedly beautiful part of the world in comfort.
Captain Michiel Willems, Nina, Hotel Director
Frank Ulbricht, Cruise Director Dave Shea
I had the opportunity to talk with Hotel Director Frank Ulbricht about the noticeably smooth operations. A 20 year veteran of the line, it was clear his disciplined dedication to the role contributes greatly to the tickety boo running of the ship.
I asked him to explain the ‘premium’ classification for Holland America. Besides the service and dining, I’m told it’s the space. The ship has the same hull as some non-premium lines which carry 3,000 passengers, whereas the Zuiderdam only carries 2,000. More space, less crowding.
We also talked about the much needed facelift the old girl will undergo in March. (The last time the Zuiderdam was refurbished was in 2007.) I tried prying some secrets regarding any new innovations and was met with a firm “no”.
View of glacier from my balcony
When I asked about the pleasant atmosphere with a congenial crew, a noticeably softened Frank told me, “Holland America takes care of all its employees. It’s a family.”
About the food. I’m not generally a fan of cruise ship dining rooms. It’s difficult to serve hundreds of people simultaneously and ensure the quality and temperature is sustained. And it’s even more difficult to produce tenderloin that isn’t overcooked – no matter what the size of the restaurant. HAL delivered on all fronts. We found the menu varied and interesting, and the dishes flavourful and well prepared.
The crowning dining experience was the Pinnacle Grill and its transformation into New York’s famous Le Cirque restaurant. The sauce for the signature sea bass dish takes 3 days to prepare and is made of 5 different wines. Needless to say, it was exquisite.
Although I have to admit my personal favourite was the Italian fare at Canaletto. The lemon infused chicken fusilli could compete with any of the best trattorias. There is a $10 cover fee for Canaletto, but it is well worth it. The only down side is that it is not a completely separate area but adjacent to the buffet.
View from prop plane after landing on Musty Fjord lake
Since it is my duty to provide balanced reporting, there is one area which we found needs improving and that is the smoking policy. Holland America is one of the few cruise lines which still allow smoking on balconies. So when relaxing in your stateroom, doors wide open to the view, you can enjoy the aroma of someone’s burning cigarette one deck below. The good news is they are revisiting the policy.
It’s the final day of the cruise and we are sailing back to Vancouver in glorious sunshine. The Alaskan trekkers have shed their mukluks and have spread out all over the deck like seals soaking up the heat. When we hit a sudden fog patch, everyone scatters as though a silent muster call suddenly brought them back to reality. Tomorrow we disembark.
Next time… Excursions and Dancing With The Stars!
