Black Tie, Kilts & Wellies

with Jill Wykes, Editor, Cruise & Travel Lifestyles Magazine

I’ve just returned from sailing on the Hebridean Princess, a little gem of a ship that sails among the hundreds of islands off the West coast of Scotland, as well as venturing around the British Isles, and occasionally to Norway. She only carries up to 49 guests and over 60% of those are repeat customers.

When I first heard about this former island ferry that had been refitted as a luxury cruise ship, twice chartered by HM Queen Elizabeth II, I really didn’t know what to expect. The instructions that came with the tickets strongly suggested bringing Wellington boots for the soggy footing during the day, as well as Black Tie, kilts and formal wear for the 2 gala evenings! Let me tell you, packing was a challenge.

It all became a lot clearer when we boarded the ship in Oban and joined the other guests in the lounge for tea, scones, clotted cream, finger sandwiches and champagne. It was like arriving at a British country club, or a manor house weekend, where the service was impeccable and the surroundings fitted with comfortable but eclectic furnishings, a very British mismatch of prints and tartans, spotless and polished wood and brass; a well and lovingly cared-for ship, which many of the guests consider their 2nd home. As for the guests, a delightfully quirky and eccentric bunch who were to be an endless source of fascination for the week. You never know who you will meet on this ship.

Our itinerary was Footloose on Skye. Each year the Princess offers several Footloose itineraries, which are geared towards serious hikers and walkers. (Yes, complete with poles and walking britches!) But thankfully, a more leisurely alternative for “strollers” is always offered, and according to the very witty and charming Scot guide, Ted, they also can accommodate “stragglers”. I’m afraid I fell into this latter category most days.

We were incredulous each morning as the “walkers” headed off with one of the guides to climb up An Sgurr, a massive volcanic plug on Eigg, or the next day as they headed out early for a 7 to 9 mile hike on Skye, armed with as much water, fruit, chocolate bars and potato crisps as they wanted. Oh, and they helped themselves to the miniatures of Scotch whiskey that were also on offer! The warnings of wet footing were not exaggerated. One “walker” from Surrey, B.C., actually resorted to going barefoot when the footing became too wet. “He hikes barefoot all the time at home,” his wife explained. Egads! Hiking barefoot in the Rockies?

One evening our talented guide, Ted, brought out his guitar and an impromptu concert and sing-along took place well into the night. We sang along to everything from The Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond to Leonard Cohen’s Suzanne.

At the Museum of Island Life, I purchased a small teddy bear dressed in a tartan scarf and woolly sweater, who bears a sign reading: “My name is Hamish. Please look after me.” One day after a long tour we returned and found Hamish in the bed, leaning against the pillows, watching TV, holding onto the remote control with the “Do not disturb” sign propped up against him. A nice touch.

On the final evening of our cruise, following a gala dinner, where the Haggis was accompanied by a piper, and Ted recited Robbie Burns’ Address to the Haggis in his delightful accent, an impromptu concert took place with one of our fellow travellers, a doctor with a deep baritone singing, appropriately, Some Enchanted Evening. A fitting end, and a fitting song, to cap off a unique experience.